Connecticut farming, rich in heritage and attracting new farmers
Connecticut farming, rich in heritage and attracting new farmers
Connecticut’s rich agricultural roots date back to the crop gardens planted by indigenous peoples who cultivated staples like the Three Sisters — maize, beans and squash — as well as sunflowers and Jerusalem artichokes.
European settlers brought their own land-use practices, clearing large tracts of land for crops and grazing livestock, and they learned new techniques from the region’s Native Americans.
Scenes from ‘Working the Land.’ The documentary traces the history of Connecticut agriculture from its earliest history to its present-day diversity. (Photo courtesy of SimonPure Productions and the Connecticut Humanities Council)By the late 18th century farming was an economic mainstay for most residents, but by the middle of the 19th century the rise of industry changed the state’s agrarian landscape to an industrial one. Farmland acreage and the number of farms in the state steadily declined well into the 21st century, with recent tallies showing fewer than 5,000 farms.
There is, however, a current resurgence of interest in local farming in Connecticut.
“Working the Land” is a co-production of SimonPure Productions and Connecticut Humanities Council, and is available on DVD at www.workingtheland.com
Narrated by actor Sam Waterston, the documentary tells the compelling story of state agriculture from its earliest history to its present-day diversity. It also explores trends affecting farming in the state and the public policy that shapes its future.
It describes how Connecticut farmers and farming helped build the state, gives sustenance to millions and provides state residents with a special sense of place. The information was garnered from state farmers. These farmers talk about the future of farming, which some see as a risk while others see transformation and resurgence.
One of those farmers is John Lyman III of Lyman Orchards. The Lyman family settled in Middlefield in 1741, starting its farmstead with 30 acres. Today, Lyman Orchards is the ninth oldest family owned business in the nation. In his video on the website, Lyman said, ╥At the turn of the century we had 500 acres of peaches and Connecticut was the second largest peach-producing state behind Georgia. That was going along all fine and good until the winter of 1917-18, where frost went four feet into the ground and basically killed every peach tree in the state.
Most peach growers, including Lyman, at that time shifted over, to apple trees, which were hardier. Today Lyman Orchards is highly diversified.
“We grow apples, peaches, pears, small fruits, strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and pumpkins,” said Lyman. “We also have a retail market and a bakery that supports the store, and a wholesale pie business that’s been growing dramatically. We also have two 18-hole championship golf courses. We rent our old homestead for party and wedding space. Our focus is to try to promote ╘Connecticut Grown,╒ absolutely.”
Managing someone else╒s farm is an alternative to the challenges involved with starting one. After graduating from Cornell with an agricultural degree, Sam Hammer followed that path managing Holcomb Farm Community Supported Agriculture in West Granby.
“Holcomb is also a charitable farm,” explained Hammer. “About 60 percent of our produce is earmarked for the CSA. The other part is our partnership with social services agencies in Hartford, to which we provide between 30,000 and 40,000 pounds of fresh produce every year for people who wouldn’t otherwise have access to fresh, organic produce.”
Holcomb grows about 35 crops, such as tomatoes, peppers, watermelon, greens, herbs, cantaloupe, pumpkins, winter squash, carrots, beets and turnips. It began well over a decade ago, and today is well established.
“There’s a good market for our CSA and we’ve built up the farm enough to be in a pretty strong position,” said Hammer. “I think CSA is here to stay in places like Connecticut that are heavily populated and fairly affluent. And, I see a tremendous need among folks who live around here in suburbia to come out and see what a farm is all about. CSA is perfect for that.”
Not all produce farmers in Connecticut have long family heritages in the state.
Despite long hours, hard work and uncertain rewards, Jamaican native Michael Buchanan, who learned how to farm from his parents, is one of Connecticut’s newest farmers. He works rented land in South Windsor.
“One of my things is to get my produce to my customers in the freshest state possible, from a few hours to 24 hours,” said Buchanan. “We get that vitality and that gives me some edge in my local area over the supermarkets. I’m also looking to finding niche products that will appeal to different tastes, wherever they are.”
His most popular crop is calalu, an amaranth used by Caribbean and African people and other ethnic groups. He also grows scotch bonnet peppers, tomatillos, beans and thyme.
“Much of my produce can be found in supermarkets and small stores and a few restaurants,” said Buchanan. “Most of my crops are sold in the greater Hartford area where there’s a large Caribbean-Jamaican population. There are populations out there that are looking out for products of their own ethnic origins, as well as others who like the exotics.”
He also attended a farmers market run by the Hartford Food System where he discovered all ethnicities are interested in his produce. “The farmers market, apart from being a good opportunity for sales and marketing, is a good social spot,” he said. “You meet such nice people. You’re able to exchange all kinds of ideas.”
Today, over 4,000 farms are registered with the Connecticut Department of Agriculture’s Connecticut Grown local initiative.